You recognize the problem: same ride, different range
Some days you get home with ease with 35% battery left, other days you get a niggling feeling even at the last stretch. This is no imagination: the battery range of an e-bike can fluctuate considerably from one ride to the next, even if your battery capacity is the same.
For models with different batteries (e.g. 720Wh and 960Wh) it seems simple: bigger number means further ride. In practice, your driving style, conditions and load often determine more than you expect.
What does 720Wh or 960Wh actually mean?
Wh stands for watt-hour: a measure of the amount of energy stored in the battery. Roughly speaking, more Wh = more “fuel” to keep the motor supported.
A 960Wh battery theoretically has 33% more energy than 720Wh (960/720 = 1.33). So, if everything else remains exactly the same, you can also expect about 33% more range.
That “all things being equal” is the tricky part.
Why is that 33% often not exactly reflected on the road?
- Your consumption per kilometer is not constant: headwinds, traffic lights and cold air increase consumption.
- Driving behavior changes with larger battery: you are more likely to choose higher support because you feel “space”.
- Batteries deliver differently in cold and high load conditions: power can downshift earlier, pulling more current for the same feel.
The most common causes of range difference
Below are the factors that make the biggest difference in practice. You can use them as a checklist to plan your own trips more realistically.
1) Total load: weight of rider + luggage + bike
More mass means more energy when accelerating and on inclines. Rolling resistance also plays a role in flat driving, especially with lower tire pressure and wide tires.
In an e-bike for commuting with a bag or crate, the difference can quickly be 5-15 km on one charge, depending on your assistance level.
2) Stop-and-go in the city
Each time you reaccelerate, you demand peak power from the engine. In heavy city traffic with many intersections, your average speed is lower and your number of accelerations higher.
This is reflected in the range: the same distance with fewer stops often takes noticeably less battery.
3) Support mode and pedaling behavior
The motor “measures” what you are doing and supplements that with support. The higher the setting, the more energy per kilometer goes out of the battery.
- Low/eco: you provide more labor yourself; low consumption per km.
- Middle: comfortable pace; average consumption per km.
- High/turbo: fast acceleration and higher cruising speed; high consumption per km.
A common mistake when calculating range e-bike 720Wh 960Wh is thinking that “average use” is the same for everyone. In practice, it mainly means: how much do you let the motor work?
4) Tires, tire pressure and surface.
Rolling resistance is a silent wrecker of your range. Soft tires increase the contact patch and thus energy loss, especially on asphalt.
Surface also makes a difference:
- Smooth asphalt: low consumption.
- Cobblestones and poor road surface: higher consumption due to vibration and micro acceleration.
- Sand, mud or wet grass: much higher consumption; you roll less and “push” more.
5) Wind and speed
Air resistance increases greatly with speed. So a small difference in speed can give a big difference in consumption, especially if you often maintain 25 km/h and have headwinds.
In strong headwinds, you not only go slower; you also require more support to keep the same feeling.
6) Temperature and battery chemistry
Cold conditions reduce the availability of energy in lithium-ion batteries. You notice this as faster declining range, especially on trips where the battery is outside and immediately under full load.
Those eager to understand why cold affects lithium-ion can read the basics at Wikipedia on lithium-ion batteries (background on operation and behavior).
7) Maintenance and engineering: brakes, bearings, alignment
A lightly applied brake or a crooked wheel constantly consumes energy. That effect feels small, but on long rides it ticks over.
Software settings and sensors also come into play: if your support feels more “aggressive,” that could mean you're in peak consumption more often.
So you can realistically estimate your own range
Useful estimation starts with one simple step: start from your consumption in Wh per kilometer. That makes 720Wh and 960Wh directly comparable, regardless of marketing numbers.
Step 1: Choose a realistic consumption bandwidth (Wh/km)
Consumption varies by bike, bike, tires and riding style. Still, a range works well for planning purposes. Think of this as a practical rule of thumb for many e-bikes and e-fat bikes in daily use:
- 8-12 Wh/km: economical (flat route, low wind, low support, good tire pressure).
- 12-18 Wh/km: average (mixed route, city traffic, normal support).
- 18-25 Wh/km: heavy (lots of stop-and-go, headwind, high assist, heavier load, cold weather).
Step 2: Calculate your theoretical range
Formula:
Range (km) = battery capacity (Wh) / consumption (Wh per km)
To make it concrete, a little table helps. You can immediately see why the same battery sometimes feels “short” and sometimes “long.”.
This table shows you roughly how many miles you can expect at different consumption rates.
| Consumption (Wh/km) | 720Wh (km) | 960Wh (km) |
|---|---|---|
| 10 Wh/km (economical) | 72 km | 96 km |
| 15 Wh/km (average) | 48 km | 64 km |
| 20 Wh/km (heavy) | 36 km | 48 km |
| 25 Wh/km (very heavy) | 28.8 km | 38.4 km |
Step 3: Add a realistic safety margin
Don't plan on 0%. Battery indicators are estimates, and in cold, the latter 20% can “drop out” faster under load.
- For commuting: count with 15-25% reserve.
- For a long trip: count with 25-35% reserve, especially in windy or unfamiliar route.
Practical tips to increase your reach (without slowing down)
You don't necessarily have to bike slower to get more mileage. Often gains are found in small adjustments.
Check your tires before you leave
- Use a pump with a pressure gauge.
- Do you ride a lot with luggage or a child? Turn up the tension slightly within the tire limits.
Make “support smart” instead of “support high”
- Use higher support especially during acceleration and headwinds.
- Shift down once you are at cruising speed.
Keep the battery warmer in winter
- Store the battery inside if you can.
- Don't leave with an ice-cold battery that has to work hard right away.
Which battery suits your use: 720Wh or 960Wh?
The choice is often less black and white than “big is better.” It comes down to your daily pattern, your margin and how often you want (or can) load.
Quick Selection Guide
This table helps you choose based on situations that are common in the Netherlands.
| Your situation | 720Wh often fits as... | 960Wh is often smarter as... |
|---|---|---|
| Commuting (flat, predictable) | you stay within ~30-45 km total daily and can charge at home/work | you want to plan broadly or drive several days without loading |
| City trips with many stops | you usually drive in eco/middle | You often ride in high support or carry a lot of weight |
| Family/messenger or heavy load | your distances are short | You regularly take long trips with extra pounds |
| Winter use | your trips are short and you plan with margin | you want assurance of your range even in cold and windy weather |
Where to look further on the site
If you want to better match your range to your daily trips, it helps to also consider charging, maintenance and security.
- documents and practical information (useful when looking back for specifications or usage information)
- maintenance and service through STOER Care (for checkpoints that keep your consumption down)
- insurance and security (relevant if you do a lot of mileage and use your bike intensively)
A down-to-earth way to plan better tomorrow already
Want to apply this right away? After three rides, write down your distance, conditions (wind/cold) and what percent battery you used. Convert that to Wh/km with your battery capacity, and you have a personal bandwidth that is much more reliable than general claims.
If you want, you can then schedule a test ride or service check so that your support, tire pressure and adjustment really suit your use. Through the site, you'll find the right place to quietly arrange that.