{"id":9293,"date":"2026-02-22T16:12:17","date_gmt":"2026-02-22T15:12:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/stoerbikes.com\/nl\/?p=9293"},"modified":"2026-02-12T08:41:46","modified_gmt":"2026-02-12T07:41:46","slug":"how-can-you-calculate-e-bike-range-at-720wh-vs-960wh-and-why-does-battery-range-differ-so-much","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/stoerbikes.com\/en\/hoe-kun-je-de-actieradius-e-bike-berekenen-bij-720wh-vs-960wh-en-waarom-verschilt-het-accubereik-zo-sterk\/","title":{"rendered":"How can you calculate e-bike range at 720Wh vs 960Wh, and why does battery range differ so much?"},"content":{"rendered":"<h2>You recognize the problem: same ride, different range<\/h2>\n<p>Some days you get home with ease with 35% battery left, other days you get a niggling feeling even at the last stretch. This is no imagination: the battery range of an e-bike can fluctuate considerably from one ride to the next, even if your battery capacity is the same.<\/p>\n<p>For models with different batteries (e.g. 720Wh and 960Wh) it seems simple: bigger number means further ride. In practice, your driving style, conditions and load often determine more than you expect.<\/p>\n<h2>What does 720Wh or 960Wh actually mean?<\/h2>\n<p>Wh stands for watt-hour: a measure of the amount of energy stored in the battery. Roughly speaking, more Wh = more \u201cfuel\u201d to keep the motor supported.<\/p>\n<p>A 960Wh battery theoretically has 33% more energy than 720Wh (960\/720 = 1.33). So, if everything else remains exactly the same, you can also expect about 33% more range.<\/p>\n<p>That \u201call things being equal\u201d is the tricky part.<\/p>\n<h3>Why is that 33% often not exactly reflected on the road?<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Your consumption per kilometer is not constant<\/strong>: headwinds, traffic lights and cold air increase consumption.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Driving behavior changes with larger battery<\/strong>: you are more likely to choose higher support because you feel \u201cspace\u201d.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Batteries deliver differently in cold and high load conditions<\/strong>: power can downshift earlier, pulling more current for the same feel.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>The most common causes of range difference<\/h2>\n<p>Below are the factors that make the biggest difference in practice. You can use them as a checklist to plan your own trips more realistically.<\/p>\n<h3>1) Total load: weight of rider + luggage + bike<\/h3>\n<p>More mass means more energy when accelerating and on inclines. Rolling resistance also plays a role in flat driving, especially with lower tire pressure and wide tires.<\/p>\n<p>In an e-bike for commuting with a bag or crate, the difference can quickly be 5-15 km on one charge, depending on your assistance level.<\/p>\n<h3>2) Stop-and-go in the city<\/h3>\n<p>Each time you reaccelerate, you demand peak power from the engine. In heavy city traffic with many intersections, your average speed is lower and your number of accelerations higher.<\/p>\n<p>This is reflected in the range: the same distance with fewer stops often takes noticeably less battery.<\/p>\n<h3>3) Support mode and pedaling behavior<\/h3>\n<p>The motor \u201cmeasures\u201d what you are doing and supplements that with support. The higher the setting, the more energy per kilometer goes out of the battery.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Low\/eco<\/strong>: you provide more labor yourself; low consumption per km.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Middle<\/strong>: comfortable pace; average consumption per km.<\/li>\n<li><strong>High\/turbo<\/strong>: fast acceleration and higher cruising speed; high consumption per km.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>A common mistake when calculating range e-bike 720Wh 960Wh is thinking that \u201caverage use\u201d is the same for everyone. In practice, it mainly means: how much do you let the motor work?<\/p>\n<h3>4) Tires, tire pressure and surface.<\/h3>\n<p>Rolling resistance is a silent wrecker of your range. Soft tires increase the contact patch and thus energy loss, especially on asphalt.<\/p>\n<p>Surface also makes a difference:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Smooth asphalt<\/strong>: low consumption.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Cobblestones and poor road surface<\/strong>: higher consumption due to vibration and micro acceleration.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Sand, mud or wet grass<\/strong>: much higher consumption; you roll less and \u201cpush\u201d more.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>5) Wind and speed<\/h3>\n<p>Air resistance increases greatly with speed. So a small difference in speed can give a big difference in consumption, especially if you often maintain 25 km\/h and have headwinds.<\/p>\n<p>In strong headwinds, you not only go slower; you also require more support to keep the same feeling.<\/p>\n<h3>6) Temperature and battery chemistry<\/h3>\n<p>Cold conditions reduce the availability of energy in lithium-ion batteries. You notice this as faster declining range, especially on trips where the battery is outside and immediately under full load.<\/p>\n<p>Those eager to understand why cold affects lithium-ion can read the basics at <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Lithium-ion_battery\" rel=\"nofollow\">Wikipedia on lithium-ion batteries<\/a> (background on operation and behavior).<\/p>\n<h3>7) Maintenance and engineering: brakes, bearings, alignment<\/h3>\n<p>A lightly applied brake or a crooked wheel constantly consumes energy. That effect feels small, but on long rides it ticks over.<\/p>\n<p>Software settings and sensors also come into play: if your support feels more \u201caggressive,\u201d that could mean you're in peak consumption more often.<\/p>\n<h2>So you can realistically estimate your own range<\/h2>\n<p>Useful estimation starts with one simple step: start from your <strong>consumption in Wh per kilometer<\/strong>. That makes 720Wh and 960Wh directly comparable, regardless of marketing numbers.<\/p>\n<h3>Step 1: Choose a realistic consumption bandwidth (Wh\/km)<\/h3>\n<p>Consumption varies by bike, bike, tires and riding style. Still, a range works well for planning purposes. Think of this as a practical rule of thumb for many e-bikes and e-fat bikes in daily use:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>8-12 Wh\/km<\/strong>: economical (flat route, low wind, low support, good tire pressure).<\/li>\n<li><strong>12-18 Wh\/km<\/strong>: average (mixed route, city traffic, normal support).<\/li>\n<li><strong>18-25 Wh\/km<\/strong>: heavy (lots of stop-and-go, headwind, high assist, heavier load, cold weather).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Step 2: Calculate your theoretical range<\/h3>\n<p>Formula:<\/p>\n<p><strong>Range (km) = battery capacity (Wh) \/ consumption (Wh per km)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>To make it concrete, a little table helps. You can immediately see why the same battery sometimes feels \u201cshort\u201d and sometimes \u201clong.\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>This table shows you roughly how many miles you can expect at different consumption rates.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Consumption (Wh\/km)<\/th>\n<th>720Wh (km)<\/th>\n<th>960Wh (km)<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>10 Wh\/km (economical)<\/td>\n<td>72 km<\/td>\n<td>96 km<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>15 Wh\/km (average)<\/td>\n<td>48 km<\/td>\n<td>64 km<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>20 Wh\/km (heavy)<\/td>\n<td>36 km<\/td>\n<td>48 km<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>25 Wh\/km (very heavy)<\/td>\n<td>28.8 km<\/td>\n<td>38.4 km<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h3>Step 3: Add a realistic safety margin<\/h3>\n<p>Don't plan on 0%. Battery indicators are estimates, and in cold, the latter 20% can \u201cdrop out\u201d faster under load.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>For commuting<\/strong>: count with 15-25% reserve.<\/li>\n<li><strong>For a long trip<\/strong>: count with 25-35% reserve, especially in windy or unfamiliar route.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Practical tips to increase your reach (without slowing down)<\/h2>\n<p>You don't necessarily have to bike slower to get more mileage. Often gains are found in small adjustments.<\/p>\n<h3>Check your tires before you leave<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Use a pump with a pressure gauge.<\/li>\n<li>Do you ride a lot with luggage or a child? Turn up the tension slightly within the tire limits.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Make \u201csupport smart\u201d instead of \u201csupport high\u201d<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Use higher support especially during acceleration and headwinds.<\/li>\n<li>Shift down once you are at cruising speed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h3>Keep the battery warmer in winter<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Store the battery inside if you can.<\/li>\n<li>Don't leave with an ice-cold battery that has to work hard right away.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Which battery suits your use: 720Wh or 960Wh?<\/h2>\n<p>The choice is often less black and white than \u201cbig is better.\u201d It comes down to your daily pattern, your margin and how often you want (or can) load.<\/p>\n<h3>Quick Selection Guide<\/h3>\n<p>This table helps you choose based on situations that are common in the Netherlands.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Your situation<\/th>\n<th>720Wh often fits as...<\/th>\n<th>960Wh is often smarter as...<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Commuting (flat, predictable)<\/td>\n<td>you stay within ~30-45 km total daily and can charge at home\/work<\/td>\n<td>you want to plan broadly or drive several days without loading<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>City trips with many stops<\/td>\n<td>you usually drive in eco\/middle<\/td>\n<td>You often ride in high support or carry a lot of weight<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Family\/messenger or heavy load<\/td>\n<td>your distances are short<\/td>\n<td>You regularly take long trips with extra pounds<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Winter use<\/td>\n<td>your trips are short and you plan with margin<\/td>\n<td>you want assurance of your range even in cold and windy weather<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<h2>Where to look further on the site<\/h2>\n<p>If you want to better match your range to your daily trips, it helps to also consider charging, maintenance and security.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"\/en\/documents\/\">documents and practical information<\/a> (useful when looking back for specifications or usage information)<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"\/en\/tough-care\/\">maintenance and service through STOER Care<\/a> (for checkpoints that keep your consumption down)<\/li>\n<li><a href=\"\/en\/secured\/\">insurance and security<\/a> (relevant if you do a lot of mileage and use your bike intensively)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>A down-to-earth way to plan better tomorrow already<\/h2>\n<p>Want to apply this right away? After three rides, write down your distance, conditions (wind\/cold) and what percent battery you used. Convert that to Wh\/km with your battery capacity, and you have a personal bandwidth that is much more reliable than general claims.<\/p>\n<p>If you want, you can then schedule a test ride or service check so that your support, tire pressure and adjustment really suit your use. Through the site, you'll find the right place to quietly arrange that.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Je herkent het probleem: dezelfde rit, ander bereik De ene dag kom je met gemak thuis met 35% accu over, de andere dag krijg je al bij het laatste stuk een knagend gevoel. Dat is geen verbeelding: het accubereik van een e-bike kan per rit flink schommelen, zelfs als je accucapaciteit gelijk is. Bij modellen [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9293","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-algemeen"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v27.5 (Yoast SEO v27.5) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Actieradius e-bike berekenen: 720Wh vs 960Wh vergeleken - STOER Bikes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Leer je actieradius e-bike berekenen met een simpele formule. 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